Short version: the start code matters. "iaai stationary vs run and drive" tells you whether the yard actually verified movement or not. That one fact should change your max bid, your pickup plan, and how you size repairs. Read this like a pre-auction briefing — exact, blunt, practical.
Core idea — why a start code changes everything
IAAI uses start codes to report what the vehicle did at the branch (see IAAI vehicle listing details). "Run & Drive" means the vehicle started, idled, both forward and reverse gears engaged, and the steering wheel made one full rotation during inspection. "Stationary" means the vehicle will not start, has engine damage, or was not tested on arrival. Those are not marketing terms. They are the yard's inspection result. Treat them like test outcomes, not promises about pickup condition.
What each code actually tells you (and what it doesn't)
Run & Drive: the yard verified three items on arrival — engine started (with or without a jump), gears engaged, steering turned one full rotation. That lowers certain immediate mechanical risks, but it does not guarantee roadworthiness or that the vehicle will be the same at pickup. Run & Drive is a snapshot at the branch only.
Stationary: the vehicle didn’t meet the yard test. That could be a dead engine, transmission drag, seized components, or the yard simply didn't test it. Stationary listings often include a damage type; treat that as your first clue. If the damage code references engine or front-end, assume the inoperability is mechanical unless photos show otherwise.
Starts (middle ground): engine started at arrival, but driving was not confirmed. That's a transmission/driveline unknown. If you hate transmission risk, "Starts" is closer to Stationary for bidding purposes. Use a pre-auction lot checklist for Copart and IAAI to interpret these codes against photos and damage notes.
How this changes your max-bid math (the formula you actually use)
Don't chase a car because the pictures look good. Use a formula and stick to it. Your max bid should come from a simple equation you can run in your head at the lot:
Max Bid = ARV − Estimated Repairs − Buyer Fees − Transport − Target Profit
How the start code changes each term:
- Estimated Repairs — drop this number only when the lot is Run & Drive. For Stationary, inflate this line: add unknown-engine or transmission cost, whatever you can’t check from photos or keys.
- Buyer Fees — same no matter what the start code is, but factor them in early. Don’t pretend they’re negligible.
- Transport — Stationary vehicles often need a winch or rollback. Add more to this line when the code is Stationary.
- ARV — unchanged by the start code, but comps that sold clean will set realistic ARV. Be conservative if the car’s title status is salvage or branded.
Be opinionated here: if you can’t estimate the likely engine or transmission fix from the photos and the listing says Stationary, walk away or make a very low exploratory bid. Too many flippers overpay for a "maybe" fix. For a method to size estimated repairs before you bid, see our salvage auction repair estimate: pre-bid repair math.
If you prefer to automate this, AutoFlip Pro's Intelligent max bid calculator pulls market-value estimates, lets you enter repair and transport inputs, and applies the risk adjustment so you get a defensible starting Max Bid quickly — useful when start codes change your Estimated Repairs and Transport expectations.
Title risk, salvage traps, and paperwork
Start codes don’t change title branding, but they affect the probability that the title is a mess. A Stationary lot with engine damage increases the chance of a branded title after repair. If the listing notes structural or fire claims, treat Stationary as a red flag for repair cost magnitude and titling headaches. Use the salvage title history red flags checklist to spot listing notes that predict paperwork headaches.
Ask these direct questions before you bid:
- Is the key available? If not, Stationary gets riskier. No key means you’ll be buying time and labor to even diagnose.
- Is the title salvage or clean? Salvage titles cost you resale credibility; factor that into ARV.
- Any history notes in the listing beyond start code? If photos don’t match the damage text, pause and re-evaluate.
Opinion: people treat Stationary as "cheaper" automatically. It can be cheaper, or it can be a title problem that kills your margin. Do the paperwork check before the hammer falls. If you need a primer on post-repair branding and resale, consult the rebuilt title buyer’s guide.
Inspection checklist specific to the code
Run & Drive inspection priorities:
- Confirm engine sound and idle via photos or video if available. Ask for a short video of the engine running at idle and when shifted into drive and reverse.
- Check transmission engagement signs in photos: wheel alignment, damage to driveline, fluid leaks.
- Confirm steering movement (the yard confirmed one full rotation — that’s useful). But realize yard testing can be brief; ask follow-up if anything looks suspect.
Stationary inspection priorities:
- Look for obvious clues: disconnected battery cables, broken starter, visible engine breaks, snapped belts, or axle separation.
- Request photos of the engine bay and underside. If the listing notes engine damage but the photos only show body damage, push for mechanical shots.
- Confirm whether keys are present. No key + Stationary = extra labor and parts to diagnose.
Concrete mini-case (use the yard tests as your anchor)
Two otherwise similar sedans on the same auction day. Both have similar cosmetic damage and similar comps in the area. One is listed Run & Drive — it met the yard's three checks at arrival (engine started, gears engaged, steering turned one full rotation). The other is listed Stationary and notes "engine damage."
How I handle it live:
- Run & Drive car: I assume lower immediate drivetrain cost. I still discount for potential pickup problems, but I make my max bid calculation with a smaller Estimated Repairs line.
- Stationary car: I assume a mechanical or testing issue. I increase Estimated Repairs and Transport lines. I also check title notes harder. If the Stationary car lists engine damage explicitly, I treat it as an engine risk until proven otherwise.
Result: same visual, very different bid. If you flip both, the spread is your profit — and the Stationary car usually needs a bigger spread to justify the unknowns.
Pickup, transport, and repair routing
Pickup plan differs by code. Run & Drive can often be driven onto a carrier or loaded on a yard dolly. Stationary frequently needs a rollback, winch, or trailer and may require onsite labor to prepare it for transport.
Repair routing:
- Run & Drive: route to body shop or quick mechanical shop first depending on damage. Prioritize brakes, cooling, and alignment before road testing.
- Stationary: route to your mechanic who can diagnose without a key. Expect diagnostic time. If the issue is engine mechanical, confirm total repair vs. teardown before ordering parts.
Don't outsource diagnosis. If a Stationary car looks like a possible engine transplant job, get your trusted mechanic’s opinion before you bid or have a prearranged cap on how much you'll pay for teardown and report — and if you're new, follow the First salvage flip checklist: 12 steps before you wire.
If you want to remove guesswork across lots, AutoFlip Pro can help: it automatically pulls vehicle data from a VIN or lot number, estimates market value from comparables, and calculates a Risk Level based on sales history and title notes so Stationary listings get appropriate adjustments. Save those analyses to the Auctions Watchlist to keep bids, pickup plans, and repair assumptions organized. Or, analyze a Copart lot free before you bid: analyze a Copart lot free before you bid.
Key takeaways
- Treat "iaai stationary vs run and drive" as a risk filter — Run & Drive reduces immediate drivetrain unknowns; Stationary increases them.
- Use a strict Max Bid formula and adjust the Estimated Repairs and Transport lines based on the start code.
- Confirm keys and title status before bidding. Stationary + no key is a common margin killer.
- Ask for videos or additional photos. Yard checks are brief; additional visual evidence cuts risk.
- If you can’t diagnose the likely engine/transmission cost from photos, lower your bid or skip the lot.
FAQ
Does Run & Drive mean the car is roadworthy at pickup?
No. Run & Drive means the yard verified the engine started and the vehicle moved at the branch during inspection. It does not guarantee roadworthiness at pickup. Treat it as a lower-risk snapshot, not a road-test certificate.
Can Stationary be an easy flip?
Sometimes. Stationary can be a simple battery, starter, or linkage fix. But it can also mask engine or transmission failure. Use photos, damage descriptions, and key availability to judge. If you're not confident diagnosing the cause from visuals, plan for larger repair estimates.
If a listing says Starts, how should I bid compared to Run & Drive?
Starts is a middle ground. The engine started at the branch, but driving wasn't verified. That leaves transmission and driveline unknowns. For bidding, treat "Starts" closer to Stationary if you can’t confirm transmission condition from photos or service history.
How much extra should I budget for transport on Stationary vehicles?
Don't rely on a standard number. Instead, add a transport buffer relative to your normal carrier cost to cover winch or special handling. If you don’t know typical carrier variations, ask your transporter before you bid.
What’s the quickest way to cut risk on auction day?
Ask for targeted proof: a short video of the engine running, a photo of a key in the ignition, and engine-bay shots. If you can get that before bidding, you shrink the unknowns dramatically. For a full lot-prep routine, pair this with your lot analysis workflow.
Actionable pre-auction checklist
- Run the Max Bid formula for every lot and write it down.
- Check the start code first. Adjust Estimated Repairs and Transport lines immediately.
- Confirm key availability and title brand before bidding.
- Request a short video if the start code is Starts or Run & Drive; request engine-bay and underside photos for Stationary.
- Have a mechanic on call for quick diagnosis on any Stationary vehicle you're serious about.
Bottom line: start codes are not just tags. They change your math and your workflow. Use them that way and you'll avoid the common trap of overpaying for a car that looked good in pictures but failed the yard's basic mechanical checks.